Saturday, April 24, 2010

Caroline Weber, Queen of Fashion, at FIT


The Fashion Culture Programs at the Fashion Institute of Technology once again provided its students and fashionistas with an insightful and intriguing prospective on the culture of fashion by inviting author and historian Caroline Weber to discuss her latest book, "Queen of Fashion: What Marie Antoinette Wore to the Revolution." Dr. Weber’s book largely focuses on the queen's clothing, which she used to liberate herself and promote her public persona.
In 1770, Marie Antoinette married Louis XVI, the Dauphin of France. In 1774, Louis became King, making Marie Antoinette Queen. Once Queen, Marie Antoinette began to order the newest looks from the foremost couturière in Paris (i.e.: Rose Bertin). She popularized the “Robe a la Polonaise” and the “pouf” (a three-foot powdered hairstyle adorned with plumes and strategically placed decorations and ornaments, with references to current events). She began to use clothes to attract respect and awe.
Although the Queen was well liked at first, her elaborate lifestyle and her taste for expensive clothes and jewelry eventually made her unpopular with most French citizens. She quickly became the symbol of extravagance. Heavy taxes, bread shortages and high unemployment further fed the common people's discontent with the privileged class, including the Queen. In one infamous scandal -- deemed "The Affair of the Diamond Necklace" -- the Queen was accused of having an improper relationship with a wealthy church official in exchange for an expensive necklace. This further increased her unpopularity and led to a surge of articles against her.
After the birth of her children, Marie Antoinette's way of life became more restrained. She retreated to “The Petit Hameau,” a faux farm area, complete with farmhouse, dairy and poultry yard. Yet the Queen still benefitted from residing at the farmhouse. She and her attendants dressed as shepherdesses and milkmaids. They adorned simple gauze dresses with satin ribbons tied around the waist. This play at peasant life did not improve the Queen's image with the French people, who were becoming increasingly impoverished and restless as famine and malnutrition grew. France was near bankruptcy due to its part in the American revolutionary war. Yet the nobility's consumption, especially at Versailles, did not waver. With the storming of the Bastille, the Queen's fate was sealed, and on Oct. 16, 1793, she was beheaded.
Dr. Weber’s book identifies the importance of fashion and public opinion. Fashion can be a way of manipulation, especially for people of important status. In today’s society, it is important for First Lady Michelle Obama to portray a befitting image of a president’s wife. Marie Antoinette used fashion and opulence to gain acceptance and respect, yet it backfired as social and economic hardship consumed France. The young Queen never thought to consider the people's troubles and was naive about the needs of her adopted country. For more on Marie Antoinette, read Dr. Weber's book.

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